Good to Know
Dhaulagiri Northeast Ridge
Dhaulagiri Advanced Base Camp (4,748m)
Climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri from the northeast ridge is the general route. We also operate Dhaulagiri Expedition from southeast, southwest, and northwest sides on request. Trekking through a gorge between Dhaulagiri I and Dhaulagiri II around the north face, you move to the Dhaulagiri Advanced Base Camp. We will set the base camp across a steep rock tower that divides the north face and northeast spur. Before reaching the base camp, you climb an icefall.
Base camp is the place, where you will be spending the longest time during the Dhaulagiri expedition. The base camp will be set with all the tents and requirements. We, Dream Peak Adventure offers separate sleeping tents to all the crew members with a common dining tent and washroom tents. During your stay in base camp, your team leader will give you basic climbing training and also teach you how to properly use the gears. Before moving towards higher camps, we will be doing a small puja ceremony to get blessed by the deities for the successful and safe expedition.
Dhaulagiri Camp I (5,450m)
From the base camp, you will walk on mixed terrain. The first part of the ridge is known as Jacob's Ladder and, which is a moderate technical limestone. You will walk on grassy slopes, rock slabs, moraines, and glaciers. As per our past experience, it will take you around four to five hours to reach Camp I from the base camp. You need to use a fixed rope of 200 meters long on the slope of 35º-40º.
Dhaulagiri Camp II (6,400m)
Leaving Camp I behind, you ascend gradually through the ice and fixed climbing route. The route between Camp I and Camp II is safe and easier compared to other routes. You will walk on the snow-covered path for a couple of hours and tackle many steep sections of blue ice at 35º-40º slope and extends for 50-60 meters. You will not need a ladder to climb this part. Reaching camp II can be the toughest in the entire climb.
Dhaulagiri Camp III (7,400m)
From Camp II, it is the longest distance to reach Camp III. You have to walk 1000 meters. the entire route gets fixed by the Sherpa for safety. As you will be climbing on sustained slopes and exposure to cold & wind is high, it can get a little exhausting. You have to climb on ice and snowy slope 35º-45º. This part can get dangerous in the spring season and become avalanche prone.
Dhaulagiri Summit (8,167m)
We will begin climbing towards the summit of Mt. Manaslu around midnight so that we can reach the summit between 7 am to 10 am. Before reaching the main summit, you pass by a false summit. From Camp III, you will use 400 meters long fixed rope below the serac and another 400 meters long rope above it. Plus, you will also need 100 meters long fixed rope below the false summit. The route will not include technical parts, but you will be passing through basins. From the false summit, you walk on an exposed ridge and reach the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri. After touching the summit, you follow the same route and descend to lower camp for night stay.
Why go on Dhaulagiri Expedition with us?
Climbing Mount Dhaulagiri with us will make sure you will successfully reach the summit and return. We are a team of active climbers and like-minded people. We have been traveling and leading several groups in the Himalayas for more than a decade now. Our expertise and understanding of the Himalayas make us different from others. While climbing with us, you will be supported by professional climbers who have previously climbed 8,000 meters above the mountain and is well-known with the route.
Our services during the climbing
We provide extensive service during Dhaulagiri Climbing. From professional guides, well-trained porters to strong decision-making abilities, we offer the best in the Himalayas. Our itinerary is designed professionally and is well-planned to face any obstacles. Nothing can be said guaranteed up there, however, with us, you will be getting the best people who are raised in this environment, who knows what they are doing, and what is good for the entire team & you. Therefore, you will be safe with us.
We offer satellite phones that you can use to communicate with your loved ones back at home. We always upgrade our technologies and gadgets and offers the best in the market. Likewise, you will also be guided by a Sherpa Guide who can fluently speak in your language. In this way, we will make sure there is no communication gap between the team members.
For weather forecasting, we use the latest technologies. We will check the weather every time before moving any further towards the summit. We also work with a national weather forecast team that will help us to make the best decision during climbing.
Gears & Tents
All of our gears are branded. We offer high-quality tents for sleeping, dining, and washroom. All the crew members will get single sleeping tents with common dining and washroom tents. Similarly, we will carry all the necessities that are needed to make the journey smooth and comfortable. Likewise, we all offer tables and chairs where you can comfortably have your meals and discuss the route.
Lodge and camps are the main accommodation during Dhaulagiri Expedition. Lodges offer basic facilities with twin-sharing rooms and common washrooms. You have to use a nice-quality sleeping bag during the night as it can get very cold. While staying in tents, we will carry and set all the camps for you.
While staying in the lodge, the meals will be served by the menu of the lodge. You can get a good variety of options to dig in. In the camp, all the meals will be cooked and served by the team members. Our guide is well-trained in cooking. We will serve you delicious meals with a variety of options. We also make sure you are getting all the nutrients and calories that are needed for successful climbing.
Best time to go on Dhaulagiri Expedition
Map and April is the best time to do the Dhaulagiri Expedition. You will find the weather mostly stable, which is a must for a successful summit. Likewise, the climate is also neither too hot nor too cold. The views will be clear as well. However, it is difficult to predict the weather in the Himalayas as it can change anytime. Therefore, we will constantly check the temperature and wind conditions before moving from one point to another.
Physical Fitness & Altitude Sickness
Climbing an 8,000 meters mountain is not easy trekking. You have to be well-prepared before the commencement of the journey. Your body and mind both have to get ready to successfully reach the top of this mountain. The route to the top of the summit passes through many ascends & descends on a steep trail. Further, you have to cross crevasses, icefall, moraines, and glaciers. All of these demands good health, strong physical fitness, and stamina. Likewise, you have to stay many days out of the human settlement area, where you will be surrounded by mountains and snow only. This will surely test your endurance and requires strong will-power & determination.
Altitude sickness also becomes one of the major challenges that you have to overcome during the Dhaulagiri Expedition. To make sure no one has to suffer from altitude sickness on the way, we have added ample rest days before the final push towards the summit. Similarly, you will also go on short hikes from time to time adjust your body with the altitude. This is something, you cannot do in two or three days. Therefore, do not hurry and give your body enough time to adjust to the environment.
Below you can read about symptoms and prevention of altitude sickness:
Symptoms of altitude sickness:-
- nausea and vomiting
- loss of appetite
- shortness of breath
Prevention of altitude sickness:-
- Include an adequate number of rest days during the trek/climbing
- Avoid climbing more than 300-500 meters a day
- Make sure you're drinking enough water
- Eat a light but high-calorie diet
- Avoid alcohol
- Avoid smoking
- Inform your guide immediately so that he can take proper action on time
- Drop down to lower altitude and rest for a few days until symptoms getaway
Dhaulagiri Expedition Packing List
We want you to know that you can rent or buy all the gears in Kathmandu. There are several options from medium range brands to high-end brands for all budget types.
- Sun hat/scarf
- Fleece jacket with wind-Stopper
- Waterproof shell jacket
- Down vest and/or jacket
- Lightweight gloves/Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
- Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
- Fleece/wool pants
- Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
- Thick, warm wool hiking socks
- Hiking boots with spare laces
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees Fahrenheit
- Trekking poles
- Trek bag-pack
- Basic First Aid Kit
- Thermo-rest sleeping pad
- Water bottles
- Climbing harness
- Ice ax
- Mountaineering boots
- AscenderDescender/Abseil device
- Snow bar
- Ice hammer
- Helmet (optional)
- Quick-drying towel/Small wash towel
- Soap (biodegradable)
- Toothbrush/paste biodegradable)
- Face and body moisturizer
- Nail clippers
- Small mirror
- Tissue paper/toilet roll
- Anti-bacterial Hand wash
- Trail Map/Guide book
- Reading book
- Journal & Pen
- Pencils and small notebooks
- Camera with extra batteries